It’s easy to squeeze in an extra country or two on a trip to Budapest thanks to Europe’s excellent train system. We got to see Vienna and Bratislava for a whirlwind of catacombs, cake, and public art. Bundle up if you visit in the winter like I did.
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Vienna – Rain, Bones, and Fancy Cake
We hopped on the train from Budapest to Vienna and after a speedy 3 hours, we arrived in Austria to some gnarly wind and rain. I can’t say we saw much of Vienna on our walk from the train station but everyone looked pretty miserable… except for one guy casually pissing in the street. (Sorry, no pic of that. 😆)
Reinthaler Gasthaus
Location: Gluckgasse 5, 1010 Wien, Austria
Hours: Monday–Friday 11 AM–10 PM, Saturday 11 AM–4 PM, closed Sunday
By the time we ducked into into Reinthaler Gasthaus, we were thoroughly soaked. We were seated with a cute, elderly couple. We spoke no German and they spoke minimal English, so we relied on the universal language of pointing at food and making appreciative noises. I had sausage with boiled potatoes and sauerkraut, my boyfriend ordered fried livers and potato salad.
Aida Café
Location: Multiple locations. We went to Singerstraße 1, 1010 Wien, Austria
Hours: Typically 7:30 AM–7:30 PM (varies by location)
Next up, Aida Café for Viennese coffee and cake. Aida is a chain but I feel a sweet spot (literally!) for tourists breezing through the city. An ultra-feminine pink affair with gold and floral detailing. Everything in the cake case looked beautiful — I went with a slice of Mozart cake, a chocolatey sponge with pistachio marzipan.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral
Location: Stephansplatz 3, 1010 Wien, Austria
Hours: Monday–Saturday 9 AM–11:30 AM, 1 PM–4:30 PM; Sunday 1 PM–4:30 PM
Catacombs Tour: ~€7 per person
The rain let up just as we descended into the catacombs at St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Our tour guide was fantastic and our group was surprisingly entertaining. Two grown women bailed before we even got to the bones, while a little boy was almost too psyched to see a mass grave. Sadly no photos allowed down there, but the tour takes you past jars of royal intestines preserved in Schnapps, bones stacked like firewood, and clergy tombs. When we visited, tours were running every hour or so. No need to book in advance unless you’re with a big group.
The Austrian National Library
Location: Josefsplatz 1, 1015 Wien, Austria
Hours: Tuesday–Sunday 10 AM–6 PM, Thursday until 9 PM, closed Monday
Admission: ~€12 per person
The last place we saw in Vienna was the Austrian National Library State Hall. This stunning Baroque building is the country’s largest library and the shelves are stacked with approximately 200,000 books. It’s a beautiful sight to take in the books, marble statues, frescoed ceilings and oversized Venetian globes.
Then, it was time to hop on another train—next stop, Bratislava!
Bratislava – Cheese Vending Machines, UFOs, and Medieval Charm
We arrived in Bratislava just in time for sunset, and the first thing that caught my eye was the cheese vending machine at the train station. Slovakia!
Bratislavský Meštiansky Pivovar
Location: Dunajská 21, 811 08 Bratislava, Slovakia
Hours: Monday–Sunday 11 AM–11 PM
Dinner was at Bratislavský Meštiansky Pivovar, a brewery serving up classic Slovak comfort food. We tried halušky, potato dumplings smothered in sheep cheese and bacon, and Kofola, the Cold War alternative to Coke. We were both really into the halušky but only I enjoyed the Kofola — to me, it tastes like an awesome, less sugary hybrid of Coke and root beer.
Elisabeth Old Town Hotel
We dashed through yet another pelting rainstorm back to our hotel, warmed up with a hot shower, and spent the evening watching the Senzi Channel. As far as I can tell, this is a 24/7 folk music channel and I am obsessed! We stayed at the Elisabeth Old Town Hotel which I would highly recommend for its proximity to Old Town. The building and staff are lovely. The room is a little retro — in a good way.
The Blue Church
Location: Bezručova 2, 811 09 Bratislava, Slovakia
Our hotel was right around the corner from the Church of St. Elizabeth, more colloquially known as the Blue Church. Bratislava’s little Blue Church is a decorated Art Nouveau building, painted pastel blue with white detailing. It reminded me of a birthday cake.
Bratislava’s Old Town
From there, it was a short and pretty walk to see the sights in Old Town. BUT FIRST, coffee, kremes, and chestnut cheesecake at Pasterlia. This is a super cute cafe and shop — you can buy the gold dishes your pastries are served on!
Location: Panská 246, 811 01 Bratislava, Slovakia
Hours: 9 a.m. – 7 p.m. every day
Then to Čumil the Sewer Worker, a bronze statue of a man peeking out of a sewer drain. It’s up for debate whether Cumil is resting or lurking, but I’m so happy that this guy is a beloved institution! I waited behind a few other tourists to take his picture.
Location: Panská 251/1, 811 01 Bratislava, Slovakia
My boyfriend spotted Posmievačik, the Leering Man. You have to look up to see this little guy looking down on you.
Location: Panská 257/29, 811 01 Bratislava, Slovakia
Most SNP bridge stretches across the Danube River with a giant flying saucer atop its pylon. The UFO is an observation deck and restaurant that stands taller than the Statue of Liberty!
Location: Most SNP, 851 01 Bratislava, Slovakia
St. Michael’s Gate is the only preserved medieval city gate left in Bratislava. Not pictured: all the cute dogs we saw around here.
Location: Michalská ulica 22 806/24, 811 03 Staré Mesto, Slovakia
Slovak Pub
Location: Obchodná 62, 811 06 Bratislava, Slovakia
Hours: Monday–Sunday 10 AM–12 AM
Finally, we went to the Slovak Pub, a historic pub with eleven rooms, roaring fireplaces, and even period-dressed mannequins! We got the garlic soup — warm and creamy, and perfect for a winter day.
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Last, there were so many posters and stickers for this movie Invalid around the city when we visited. Has anyone seen this?? I still have it on my Letterboxd list to watch.
